HDMI Switchers and Cables – Internet TV Options

April 11, 2014

 After starting the series on disconnecting from cable TV “Cutting the Cord” , I realized it was a never-ending story. There are so many branches to the story, I decided to just consider it another category and write about it anytime I felt like it.. Granted, this is a little outside of the “prime objective” (Protecting Your Home Through Preventative Maintenance), but what the heck… its my site and I get lots of hits on Internet TV Options :).

The HDMI connector on the rear of your TV is currently the best way to get the highest quality reception from the source (DVD, DVR, Cable Box) to the TV screen. The quality of reception is no better than the cable that carries it. Typically TV’s have 2 maybe 3 HDMI connections. Optimally, for peak performance having a cable from each device to the TV will provide the best performance. However, for many people (me) it might not be practical, especially if your equipment is located in another room (like me). For this reason the best solution may be one good cable and a HDMI splitter (aka switch). By adding this device near your equipment you can connect all the source equipment using short cables, then you only require one cable between the TV and the HDMI splitter.

How do I choose a HDMI splitter? You can spend as little as  10 bucks to as much as several hundred. I looked throughout the  available devices and found the Monoprice products to be moderately priced and include the necessary features. Whether you go with Monoprice or not, here are the important features to include within your selection process.

  • Number of ports: Select a device with at least one maybe two or more ports than you need. For only a couple of bucks extra, you can accommodate a future game console or DVR. I would suggest a splitter with at least 4 ports.
  • LED indicators: A power-on lamp as well as a source indicator
  • IR Remote: If you equipment is located in another room, remotely switching from one source to another will be important. Granted, you now have ANOTHER remote to keep up with. Make sure and read my recent article on remotes.
  • HDMI Compliance: Make sure the device you purchase meets the current HDMI standards known as “HDMI 1.3a”. This is an industry standard rating that defines a level of performance. The features associated with HDMI 1.3 or better will provide higher speed and deeper color. It will also support 1080P. If a 3D TV is in your future, change that to HDMI 1.4.
  • Supports 1080P:  This will ensure, the device will not limit the broadcast ability of the source equipment. Devices compliant with HDMI 1.0 or better will cover this item.

What do I pick for an HDMI cable? There are lots of choices. It can be very easy to get caught up in the hype of all the flim flam marketing mumbo jumbo.. Most retailers jack the prices of most interconnect cables to recoup the lousy margin they had to take of the DVR they just sold you. (See PM cable comparison)  So if you can wait a couple of days, just buy it over the internet.. You will save BOO KOOS of money, especially if you have to buy a long one (like me). Many times, too much information just helps in making the decision difficult. (Some times when I try to explain some techy things to my wife, she reminds me that she really just wants to know what  time it is, and not how to know how to build a watch.) The basics are important: Larger wire size for longer distances. The smaller the number = bigger wire size. Here is the simple rules.

  • The lower the number, the larger the wire size (20 gauge (ga.) wire is larger than 26 ga.)
  • Use the shortest cable length between the connection points, don’t buy extra long ones and just coil them up.
  • Cable lengths of 15 feet or less = 24 ga
  • Cable lengths of 20 feet or less = 22 ga
  • Cable lengths of 45 feet or less = 22 ga (cable lengths over 45 feet will require an amplifier to provide you a quality signal).
  • Meets HDMI Standards 1.4
  • If you plan to run the cables through the walls, technically they should meet UL Class 2  to meet the fire rating.

As for a cable source,  I have used both Monoprice and Cablestogo with positive results. If you need a booster for lengths over 45 feet, look at Monoprice as well.

Good luck, BOB


Cutting the Cord Part IV:II Seamless Intergration

August 28, 2011

As a refresher;  this is my trek to recreate a non cable, alternative TV solution to replace the $100 a month cable habit. Admittedly, I take a bit longer than your average media reviewer to make a decision or evaluate something.  As I mentioned back in Part IV.I, one of the hooks with the Cable TV option is the (relatively)  seamless use of cable box provided remote control and access to programing. As mentioned, the solution I have been creating is a bit more complex. To achieve a similar viewing experience, you need an antenna, an internet connection, a separate DVR, and maybe a DVD player.  While building this solution, I have been collecting additional remote controls and as of this moment I am up to 7 for one TV.

Houston We Have a Problem: Even for a techno geek, 7 remotes is over the top. Here are the devices in my solution requiring a remote:

  1. Cable Box, yes its still hooked up
  2. TV remote; used to shift from one source to another
  3. DVD;  to pause and play  those redbox rentals
  4. ROKU Box; Once you are in ROKU mode, you have to surf around through the selection menus
  5. HDMI Switch; Since all my equipment is remote from the TV, I use one HDMI cable from the A/V closet to the TV, so the switcher allows me to redirect the source from the cable box, DVR or ROKU box
  6. A/V receiver; I use this device when I want to use the surround sound speakers to watch movies
  7. CD Player; not really part of the TV solution, but a remote that is used to turn on the CD player

So needless to say, it was time to consider my options. Here are my concerns:

  • My current solution is fairly complex. It may require 2 to 3 different remotes to switch between the various sources.
  • If my solution is too complex or takes to many hands and remotes, its way too inconvenient. Two or three remotes might work, but 7 is way over the limit
  • If my wife wont accept the procedures required to get to the various sources, she will push back.

Universal Remotes: These all in one controllers  have been around nearly as long as multiple remotes. I have to admit, being cheap, I never considered any of them good enough to justify the expense. However, it was worth some research to see where the technology currently is.

The good news is, there have been dramatic strides in this category of electronic devices and by most sources, the Logitech brand is viewed as the bench mark product by many professional equipment reviewers.

Looking at the Logitech family of remotes  (at least 3 to choose from), they all function the same way but the 650 model only supports 5 devices and the 900 supports 15. In the middle is the Harmony One. The major differences with the more expensive 900 is the RF control. The Harmony One is very similar to the Model 600, but will control 15 vs. 5 remotes. Do you need the RF version? What is RF vs IR. IR (InferRed Light) devices require  line-of-sight to see all the devices vs. RF (radio frequency) that can transmit through walls. So, if you have all your equipment in a cabinet or closet, the RF device will project through the wall (granted you will still require a device to convert the RF to IR to talk to all the equipment since IR is the most common communications path for residential grade AV equipment. The Harmony One appeared to be the best choice for me since I already had an IR pipe to my equipment closet and I needed to control more than 5 devices.

Here is what makes the Logitech standout:

  • The tactical buttons to move around the devices (DVR, DVD, Cable Box) are pretty common. Such as; forward, back, up down, fast forward etc. So, no mater what device you are using, those common command buttons remain the same.
  • Device specific command are through a touch screen that allows you to access specific buttons  to further customize your request. (i.e. choose a CD track or access specific segments of a DVD). These commands are not near as regularly used as the ones mentioned above.
  • Activity based commands: This is the icing on the cake. With programing, you set one button to perform multiple functions on multiple devices. For instance; to watch a DVD with my system this is what happens: TV=On, TV=Video 1, DVD=On, DVD=Play, A/V Reciever=On,  A/V receiver= Video 1.  That is 6 commands over 3 different components  with ONE BUTTON. This is AWESOME… MY WIFE CAN DO THIS!!!!!! SHE DID THIS BEFORE I SHOWED HER HOW!!!!!!
  • The downside: I got excited in the last bullet point, so as you can imagine there is a “But”. You must use your PC to program the remote. Actually I see this as a plus. I found the program fairly easy to negotiate.  With installed programing, it walks you through the various components to perform the set ups… Yes, it will take the better part of a day to complete this function, but it is TOTALLY worth it. With Logitech library of  remotes, the program remains updated so, if you buy a new DVD in 2 years, they will probably have the code set , so all you have to do is upload the new instructions.

I have to admit, this part of “Cutting the Cable” caught me off guard. I did not figure this into the equation. However, if you look at my original formulas (Part I)  on cost and budget, we had some room to make some adjustments. The Harmony One has been out a couple of years, so the price has dropped from its original price of approximately $239 to about $165. The model 900 is fairly new, so they are still pricy ($349). Granted if your equipment is concealed you will need either the RF version remote or an IR Repeater (Channel Vision or Smarthome both have decent solution for under $100). If your equipment is in a remote closet, the RF version will keep you from having to run wires from the TV to the remote location and there is no receptor located at the TV. For me, I had already wired for IR, so it worked out better for me to use the IR.

I am approaching to final step, so stay tuned to see if we can make the final cut.

Cutting the Cord Part III – Internet TV Options

January 12, 2011

If you haven’t been following this series, I am attempting to duplicate as much of  my current television viewing habits without the use of traditional CATV services. This would also include  subscription television service from companies such as Comcast, Cox, Time Warner; as well as  the Phone company versions nationally known as Direct TV, DISH, FIOS (Verizon) and U-Verse (AT&T). Watching TV on my PC is not my goal, even though you will recognize some of the services and programing that are geared toward that viewing medium. Dont get me wrong, there is a huge trend in watching video programing over a laptop or stationary PC. However, if you have looked at any new video components lately you have probably recognized a blending of the technology by having TV’s and DVD’s  “Ethernet Ready”.

Netflix  subscriptions have grown rapidly over the past few years, from a mere 4.2 million in 2005 to a robust 19 million (est.) at 2010 year-end.

In this post, we will look at the Internet options. I have to tell you that it can be near overwhelming to review the different choices. In this current evolution,  many new (and old) players are trying to find a gold mine with the killer application by trying to have the hook that catches the largest viewers. Within the discovery phase, it was apparent there two distinct target audiences with a third being a blend of the two;

  1. Viewers wanting to watch video and television programing from a PC or Smartphone device.
  2. Traditional television users wanting to view mostly traditional programing. 
  3. Hybrid providers that are looking to capture some of both user groups.

My concentration will be #2.

This market is very hot and there are new players almost daily. It seems like I turn up another one that I didn’t see the last time I looked.

I admit, I am probably not the target demographic audience (18-35) as I am not real interested in a lot of the home-brew video’s but it seems a lot of the sites are really pulling in a lot of amature and second tier type programs. Based on the selection process (surfing their site) it can take hours of just looking for something worth watching, and you may spend more time looking for it than actually watching it. For what it’s worth, there are hundreds if not thousands of pilot programs that fail before they ever get to the traditional TV or even cable. So, even though you may find lots more choices, there can be a lot of trash to flush through. Most of these options are chasing the target audience mentioned above. This age group is a lot more mobile than I am, and at this point, setting down at the TV to watch a movie or uninterrupted program is more of what I am after. Admittedly, I do watch some videos on my PC, but it is usually more about fact-finding or how-to, with a little bit of mindless dribble:).

The Obvious Contenders: ABC; CBS; NBC; FOX

As figured, most of these sites are everything you don’t want them to be. Lots of commercials,  flash and glitz. It reminded me of the early internet days, when web sites had lots of pop-ups and blinking bill board type ads. However, the exception was FOX. FOX was fairly straight forward. It was easy to find the schedule, most viewed shows and episodes. They too have commercials, but they don’t blast you the second you open the webpage. Kudos FOX. However, for me, the network options don’t add a lot of value as I was already planning to obtain those feeds from my outside antenna. If you have determined an exterior antenna is to expensive for your location, but you can receive digital (DSL) internet service, this would be the method to obtain the major networks, granted you will not receive any local programing. The “local affiliate” is where you get local news, weather and regional based programing only available over the airwaves or through the traditional CATV provider.

I have also found sites for TV Land, Discovery and about every known TV station you have ever viewed. Most all of them provide some form of programing, but I found more reduced or “shorts” (less than 5 minutes) than full length episodes.

The Internet Rivals: There are actually three different types in this category. 1) Services that use some type of box to get you from the Internet to you TV and, 2) subscription based streaming video and 3) PC Host Software.

Let it be known, this list is not complete as it could be a full-time job just to keep it up to date. 

Box Type Solutions: These  solutions provides streaming video to a traditional television.

  1. Roku: Has been around since 2002 and probably has one of the largest following.  They have teamed with certain subscription based providers such as NetFlix, Hulu,  and Amazon. A  simple solution, that works well.
  2. Boxee Box: Fairly new. They have been in the streaming video business for a couple of years but just this month released their own BOX by D-Link. It’s a bit more techy, but is picking up followers.
  3. BlockBuster TV: Instead of selling their own box, they are promoting various devices that the Blockbuster software is installed on. Their site provides a list of recommended equipment. Their model is still about renting individual videos and is priced that way. If they plan to stay in business, they will be changing this model fairly soon to match Netflix as this solution is getting the most traction.
  4. Slingbox: This is a bit different animal worth mentioning. Sling.com has subscription services and access to media like the others but with a twist. With a slingbox you can drive your viewing content to a mobile device, PC or TV. For example; if you want your PC to be the receiver of media content but you want to view it on your TV (or Iphone), the slingbox will redirect the content.
  5. Google TV: About to be released,  but appears to be hitting a few bumps along the way. Logitech will provide the BOX for the solution. Goggle will be a collective medium that will allow the user to combine viewing selections of traditional TV, but also bring in YouTube type services as well as the consumers personal video/picture library. This will be a combined subscription/box service.
  6. Apple TV: Not new, but hitting a few bumps along the way like Goggle TV.

Subscription Based Streaming video:  You will notice there is a bit of cross over between the Box solutions with the streaming services. Basically, if you want to stream video directly to your TV, you need a Box. The Box works as a cheap Internet connection dedicated to your PC, in lieu of tying up a PC (which can do the same thing).  I found about 30 choices but picked the ones I found most promising based their webpage and matched my intended viewing habits. For me, I am not real interested in watching traditional TV on my PC so a lot of the internet TV choices don’t really apply, unless I wanted to go the Slingbox path. You will find a large amount of duplication (content choices) from one service to the next as they are all pretty much dealing with the same deck. To date, NetFlix appears to be the 1000 lb. gorilla and may have a slight advantage over the other services.

  1. Netflix: 7.99 per month. Appears to have the largest selection. You can use a Roku box as mention or a Wii, PS3, Xbox or one of the newer Blu Ray DVD players. If you keep up with the news, Netflix is having problems and have doubled their price for those that want streaming + mail out disks. I have had Netflix for about 4 months and have not been overly impressed with the content selection. I believe other players will come to bat using the Roku avenue  that could either dilute or match the Netflix streaming marketshare.
  2. Hulu: Lots of programing is free, but premium is 7.99 per month.
  3. FindInternet TV: Has a fairly easy menu structure to navigate. Includes most of the common program choices. Also has some sports.
  4. TVneto: Much like the others but also has some live sports.

PC Host Software:

  1. Microsoft Media Center: Available with Windows 7, this software program is designed to allow the user to collectively bring the various websites to the PC. By looking at the software, its obvious it is geared toward large screen viewing. with limited menus and large fonts. It can use both a cable/antenna input as well as the internet. I have barely scratched the surface of this application, but it appears (with limitation) will be similar to #2 below. This is probably the top end techno geek solution, but even with a cheap PC, its still $300-$400 bucks.
  2. Unknown TBD: During my investigation, it became very obvious that with all of these various Internet hosting sites, there needed to be one type of collective or search engine that would allow the user to create their own programing guide without having  to visit all the different sites to find it. So far, I was unable to find such application, but it probably won’t be long. UPDATE!! I found what I belive to be the closest solution to this unanswered question. Clicker allows you to look for programs and tell you the different sources to view it from. Also you can set up favorites. So far, I like it. Not perfect, but the best of what I have seen. If Clicker were to hook up with Roku; this could be the solution. If you are going the Media PC route, Clicker will be tremedous help in navigating the sea of programing.

Before I started this investigation, I really thought  the winners were going to be very apparent. What I have found is that the video streaming business is very hot and becoming quite competitive with lots of big players showing up everyday.  At this stage in the game, the choice made today may be good for 4-5 years as the evolution will continue at a rapid pace for now.

Next time we will see what solution I picked and review the process of installing and using it.

Cutting the Cord Part II; Installing a TV Antenna

December 15, 2010

  The first step in cutting the cord will require the installation of a TV Antenna. As of June of 2009 broadcast television as we know it totally changed. All television providers were mandated by the US Government to convert their broadcast signal to a digital format. For that reason, if you choose to add a TV antenna, you must have a TV with a digital tuner or a converter box. If you have been purchasing television through a CATV provider you were not required to have a converter box. See DTV.gov for more information on converter boxes.  You will need a converter for each analog TV.

With digital broadcast television (antenna) service, you may find you get a better quality picture than from your CATV provider as the signal you are receiving is not filtered or choked on the way to your house. Just remember, not all programing is recorded in digital or HDTV. Reruns of Star Trek or HEE HAW will still look about the same.

Choosing and Installing a TV Antenna

  1. Choose  a high quality TV antenna:  Go to AntennaWeb and follow the instructions. This is a great site funded by the National  Broadcasters  Association (NAB) and the Consumer Electronics Association (CEA).  It does a great job of  analyzing your needs based on your specific address and zip code. Antenna selection and placement is very important. With digital broadcast TV signals, proper tuning and high quality materials are very important. AntennaWeb will tell you what TV stations you should expect to receive based on your location and the antenna selected. Follow the recommendations on the AntennaWeb page to the letter to ensure the highest quality service.
  2. Choose a good site for the Antenna: Your antenna of choice will have to be aimed in the direction identified in AntennaWeb. You can do this with a simple camping compass. Look for a location on the house with the least amount of obstructions toward the direction the antenna will be aimed.  If your house has a gable style roof, it should be easy to attach mounting hardware for the mast. Without a good place to attach it to your house, you may have to consider a free-standing antenna mast. This can add significant costs.   On the AntennaWeb page they will also recommend specific antennas with brand choices.  I have found Channel Master equipment to be superior. Regardless of the brand,  it is imperative to follow the recommendations of style/type of antenna recommended by AntennaWeb.   
  3. Grounding Required: Just like the CATV and Telephone services, you should ground the antenna mast as it is probably the tallest structure off the top of the house. If you mount the antenna near the CAT/Telephone enterance, you can add a #10 ground wire from a bolted connection at the antenna hardware to the existing ground wire of either the CATV or Telephone servies. For full understanding of grounding and bonding, take a look at the articles in the Electrical tab.
  4. Use High Quality Coax Cable: Use a high quality quad shield coax. You can purchase coax from the Orange Box store for small quantities. If you are going to wire the whole house look at CablestoGo for bulk reels of cable to save some money. If you will be getting your internet service from the cable company, you may have to provide new coax for one or the other. Check with your cable company to see if they can use your antenna coax to supply Internet Service (don’t hold your breath as they want to sell you both).
  5. Make the connections: Assuming you are running new coax or needing to make connections, you will need F-type connectors. I recommend using the Compression style NOT the crimp style for the best quality connection, they are not cheap, but this is what the professional will use. Applied correctly, they will be trouble-free. You will need to buy a special tool to apply them. The Orange Box carries both, if you want to buy them locally. If at all possible, route your new antenna cables near the same location as the CATV house connection. There will be an F-Type connector (and possible splitters) at this entry point. Simply disconnect the cable coming from the street (cable provider) and make you antenna connection here. Granted, if you wanted to retain  the CATV connection, this will not work. They make A/B switches that will allow you to switch sources, but if you do that you have to mount this A/B switch somewhere that you can get to it easily. The other choice is to add a second set of coax cables. If you are starting from square one and are installing coax cable for the first time, consider using Siamese style quad shielded cables. This way you will have two independent coax cables to each room. That way, you can connect both the primary and secondary cables to the TV allowing you to make the switch through the TV with your remote. NOTE: A splitter and an exterior A/B switch look very similar but they are not. The A/B switch allows two sources where the splitter provides two outputs.
  6. Splitters Required: For applications with multiple TV’s, you will have to run the coax into a splitter.  This allows you to start with one cable in and multiple cables out. NOTE: Everytime the signal is split, the signal strength is cut in half.  So, the more the splitters, the weaker the signal. To avoid the loss in signal strength, boosters or amplifiers can be added to the coax circuit. Make the decision to add the amplifiers AFTER you have hooked everything up and you determine you 1) have a weak signal, or 2) cannot receive all the channels you expected.
  7. Turn it up: Make all the connections to the TV’s and aim the TV antenna in the desired direction. Most new TV’s have “auto selectors” that can program your TV to all stations that the TV tuner recognizes. This is a good way to get started, but you will probably want to edit that list after you have the antenna locked in. Use the guide from AntennaWed to validate the stations you should be receiving.
  8. Troubleshooting: With digital TV reception, there is no such thing as a fuzzy picture. Poor reception will appear as an intermittent signal,  frozen/choppy picture or no picture (signal) at all.  Adjust the antenna a couple of degrees one way or the other to bring in a better signal and run the auto-select program in the TV again. If you are still not receiving all the channels, read #9.
  9. Troubleshooting II: If you find one TV receives all the channels at one TV but not at  another, this may be an indication that you need an amplifier to boost the signal. Install an amplifier per the instructions. Channel Vision carries these products too. This may solve your problem.
  10. Troubleshooting III: If you continue to have difficulty receiving some channels you may have a large obstruction (buildings, trees, mountains, hills) in the way. You can try moving the antenna to another part of the house and or try raising the antenna. Unfortunately you may have to compromise by living with the stations you can clearly receive. 

  I have completed this portion of  cutting the cord. Admittedly, I had some issues with signal strength due to cable length and splitters. If you follow the methods described, you should be able to clear up most problems as I did.

Next time we will look at the Internet TV options and how to maximize your choices.


Residential Surge Protection Using TVSS’s SPD’s Part II

June 7, 2009

damaged modemAn  analysis commissioned by State Farm Insurance found of 5500 detailed claims, more than half of the loss was related to telephone and electronic appliances.

As we become more connected through smart technology, AC power and low voltage or non-voltage carrying conductors become intertwined through the technology. When you think about it, more and more devices have an AC power cord  and a communications port for the transmission/reception of an external signal (video, DSL, etc.). Known as  “multi-port” equipment (AV Receivers, TV’s Modems, Computers, etc.) these devices add complexity to the transient voltage issue by creating additional doorways into the equipment. As we saw  in the AC Ground and Bonding article, external surges can enter the house as easily through the Telephone line, CATV or Satellite Dish as the AC utility. Studies show, even with a TVSS in the AC circuit, micro-electronics embedded in the equipment have failed due to transient voltages passing through the communications link. According to the same insurance study mentioned above, equipment including micro-electronics such as computers, TV’s, VCR’s and Satellite receivers recorded more significant losses than single-port equipment. This is not news to most of us. However, the point to recognize here is that any incoming services that arrive inside the house on a current carrying conductor (copper wire) has the potential to allow a voltage surge into the house and into our electronic equipment.

To make matters worse, having proper surge protection on the AC service and not on non-power related services may actually enhance the opportunity for a fault to occur in the multi-port equipment through surge current.  This  surge current  can create a  voltage shift  at the secondary-port on the equipment producing damage in the equipment. This voltage shift condition can also be rooted to a difference in voltage potential or ground reference at (you guessed it) the service entrance ground. This is the reason why we have seen more emphasis from the standards bodies (National Electric Code and National Institute of Standards Institute)  on the common grounding and bonding of all the incoming services (Telephone, CATV and Satellite TV) found in a typical residence. For this reason, in 1992 the IEEE  recognized this potential fault condition and coined the term Surge Reference Equalizer. Even though the industry has not really picked up on the term nor have they created a specific standard, the  UL1449 listing for this Class B surge protectors is acceptable for the time being.

 Proper Bonding and Grounding  Remain the Key Contributor to Both the Problem and the Solution

If you have read the four articles up to this point, you may think I am beating this subject to death, but grounding/bonding  remains the key contributor to both the problem and the solution. Complete the 8 point check list found in the AC Service Bond and Ground Part II.  If your house is less than 10 years old, it would be a fair assumption that all the incoming services enter near or at the AC service meter. Assuming all the services are bonded correctly as mentioned, you should be in good shape with the Telephone and CATV. For the rest of us, these services could attach any where around the house this also includes Satellite TV Antennas.  If possible, bringing all of these services within 20 feet of the AC Service entrance and attaching them as mentioned will assist in improving the ground system. (TIP: Satellite installations are typically located where they provide the best signal, bringing the ground termination from AC service entrance is important here as well).

Surge Reference Equalizer

surge protector class b 2At this point, we will assume that you have a good common ground with an equal ground reference. With that said you have successfully reduced the risk to multi-port equipment, BUT, both the IEEE and the NIST support the use of the Surge Reference Equalizer. As pictured, it looks like a typical Class B surge protector, but also has ports for communications ( RJ45 terminal, and threaded CATV terminal. With this type of TVSS there will be a PORT-IN and PORT-OUT set of connections.  Consider a Class B surge protector that includes both communication ports and CATV connections collectively in the same product for home theater equipment, set top boxes, satellite equipment, computers and any other mutli-port electrical equipment.  

Additionally Square D has release a whole house model that includes a Class C surge protector and the connections for Telco and CATV services. Tiered protection is still recommended if you decide to follow the whole house approach. (Square D Model SDSB1175C). NOTE: This method of reference equalizer is fairly new as previous practices supported keeping the services segregated until the point of termination, (CATV, Phone) independently until they reach the point of  use or the device that is common (i.e. TV, PC). As you will note, that is how I built my system. This is still an acceptable solution. 

Additional Choices – Surge Protection for Communication, CATV and Satellite:

Telephone Service: Most wire-line telephone service companies provide surge protection. If your telephone service was installed less NIDthan 10 years ago or has been worked on in that time frame you will probably have a NID (Network Interface Device) at the telephone entrance.  Telephone companies typically use “Gas filled arrestors”. Even though you may not have a NID, you probably have gas arrestors  if your phone  has been serviced in the last 20 years. Gas arrestors replace Carbon arrestors as the gas style will defeat the surge without a long term loss in service as they will self restore automatically. Since I built my grounding system before the Surge Reference Equalizer was readily available,  I placed an additional surge suppresor on my telephone line (Channel Vision C-0410). Much like the Telco provided unit it will disconnect the line in the event of a surge then restore it momentarily. Based on the performance characteristics of a Surge Reference Equalizer (SRE), in theory, I may still have a fault occur if my ground reference is not equalized and my Category A, B and C surge protectors are unable to defeat the surge prior to entering any of the protected equipment.  Since the current UL1449 is the only published document and it seems to favor an AC type failure,  for now, I am staying with my current system architecture using the C-0410  surge protection. TIP: You may have communications and/or video services provided by fiber optics. They will not have surge protection as optical services are unable to carry voltage or surge current.  If you are unsure if you have fiber optic services, the NID will have a consumer replaceable battery pack that you were informed about during the installation of the services.

4EDHICCAOT4EQ5CAS0S8SJCAJTJ6C8CATZJ50ECAZ5INCICAHEAI1MCAUYSD7KCAH7U0MDCAW5L3WSCA19XS37CAG3S3RACAVHVBMWCAXWUAI6CAED0UDWCAI9J2UFCAR71UZ8CA65BE4DCAQB2POKCATV and Satillite Services:In practice, the gas style arrestor  is used in these services as well. Because they use coax as a cable medium the arrestor looks a little different but perform in a similar fashion as the communications arrestor.

Theory vs. Science

One of the difficulties with this subject is it is very difficult to test your solution. To replicate a surge equivalent to a lightning strike is not feasible nor recommended. For this reason, surge protection, TVSS’s, SPD’s and bonding and grounding is not as black and white as we would like it to be and neither are the solutions. As you have seen in this article , there may be multiple solutions to the methods I have described. But overall, the method should still retain the same theme.   I have engineered large systems in multi story buildings and spent hundreds of thousands of dollars (not mine) to create the right grounding network  and still had recordable faults, so don’t think you will ever be 100% protected.  

One of the best articles written to date for residential bonding/grounding and surge protection is “Surges Happen”   produced by the Institute of Standards and Technology. This article covers the topic in very simple language and easy to understand instructions.

If you haven’t already, you may also want to read my 4 previous articles; AC Ground and Bonding, Electrical Switches and Outlets, AC Service Bond and Ground Part II, Residential AC Surge Protectors,

Key Inspection Points and Action Items:

  1. Annually check all your TVSS devices to insure the they remain in the protected mode (LED indicator).
  2. Follow the inspection routines as defined in AC Service Ground and Bonding Network by inspecting the mechanical connections and terminations.

In writing this series, it became apparent that I could not cover the subject in 1 or 2 postings. I hope I kept your attention and it made sense. Feel free to comment or send specific questions to Homeownerbob@gmail.com